06 Nov 2010

Wide Wings Fly Solo

This morning I woke up in Cristiano’s loft, packed my stuff again after a lovely week there, still stuffed from the handmade French crepe made by tres sexie “no, is not a pancake! Is a crepe.” Arturo last night, and joined my El Zopilote friends for a last game of cards while others peeled fresh roasted cacao.

Aw I will MISS YOU GUYS!!!! Playing Canasta and peeling cacao at El Zopilote

I hugged them goodbye around 10:30am and headed down the winding path to the main road. Heavily slept, huge smile on my face, feeling absolutely deliciously contented I caught two buses to Moyogulpa.

Little boys on buses. heartbleed.

the fare collector

This is the first time in my life I’ve felt 100{a9f0d31f6175b3e4775e11a66c07db268fb74408d6095f6b46eeec420c0e9f62} comfortable traveling alone, and not just comfortable, completely happy, as in wouldn’t want it any other way right now. And quite possibly for a long long time. I don’t feel that anxiety anymore of traveling on this island, of not being able to speak Spanish (which is still the case, hilariously) getting lost and having to sleep somewhere strange… because I really want to sleep somewhere strange. I’m trusting the process more and more. Of getting lost, having crazy things happen sometimes, and always something good coming out of it. “Get lost!” is now one of the top 10 things anyone could say to me.

So the other day I came all the way out to Moyogulpa to draw cash from the only ATM on the island and missed the last 2 buses home. I waited but they didn’t pitch. It was turning dusk and I was standing there with heavy grocery shopping bags in a sun dress being bitten by mosquitoes that come out at that time. But I wasn’t even annoyed. I just stood there and laughed, and realised that I was still standing on that corner because the night was ABOUT TO TURN AMAZING!! And I wasn’t supposed to miss it for any amount of waiting on street corners.

So I started walking to see what was up, and I walked into the most amazing hostel I have ever imagined – Hospedaje Central Moyogalpa. This is the first impression, except that when it happened it was a lot prettier because it was dusk and the lights were glowing and so was everything else.

Soon after I sat down at the bar and ordered a fresh made Pina Colada like nothing I have ever experienced in my life before. The barmen here are incredibly talented and not a wiff of arrogance. Lovely, shy and sweet and speak multiple languages. Then out of the blue my Albanian-Italian friend Anton walked in, then his friend Aurora who has the awesome bird that sits on my head, and her one-eared cat she also travels Central America with. Then Maria walked in who I have this strong connection to that I can’t explain but I feel there is more to come from our friendship. Here they all are!! Anton, Aurora and Maria.

The owner showed me around the colourful dorms and various rooms and amenities. The people who work here are VERY special and unique. They are part of an ancient tribe from this land that is dying out. I listened to the story of their journey, and slept in a hammock in the garden that night, Aurora sleeping in a hammock near me, with her bird perched on the strings sleeping. Her cat retired to her space downstairs where she is tending to new-born kittens.

Today, it wasn’t even a question where I was going to go next. Only Hospedaje Central has what it takes to completely pique my interest and fulful me right now. I am staying in the dorms and have arranged to eat a vegan dinner each night with the family. They have been very kind to open their table to me. I am loving this place so much. I am so happy here. My bed is already transformed into a nest that smells like me with my dresses hanging all around, my oils and tarot cards right next to my pillow, a lovely dark red lamp, and a lockable area I can keep my laptop safe in. Here’s a picture of one of the dorms, mines too dark with the red light to take a photo. Soooo lush.

simple bunk beds turn lush at night

This is the first comfort zone I have experienced in a very long time. They have welcomed me in like family and shared their amazing stories with me openly. These people are lovely. I feel so BLESSED to be here. I am so damn happy I missed those buses. I’m so looking forward to supper!

And each time stuff like this happens, each time I leave a place I call home, I remember those words, “I’m taking you some place amazing! I’ll always take you to amazing places!” Really, being single is so wonderful for me right now. There can be no better travel partner than one who takes you to amazing places ALL THE TIME!

this is a very special place where I see sunny faces everywhere

Thanks for following this silly, apparently unending journey! There will be more to come 🙂


  • } bird {
    November 11, 2010 Reply

    Afterall, in this opposites attract crazy mix of dad and you, I inherited these perch-adaptable twiggy birdy legs from you mom. They might be skinny, but they’re light-weight for flight and do their perching job just fine.

    Thanks for making me 🙂

  • Mummy Wakame
    November 7, 2010 Reply

    Aaaah! Now I can sleep, eat, pray and fly, knowing that my bird has a loving perch xxx

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